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Granton Harbour is situated in the north part of Edinburgh’s city centre in Scotland. Just to the west of Granton Harbour are areas known as Leith and Newhaven. Granton occupies an area on the shores of the Firth of Forth which is an industrial area with a large harbour.
The name ‘Granton Castle’ was first mentioned in documents in 1479. The building owned by John Melville was located northwest of Caroline Park and stands in Granton today. The old mansion fell into disrepair in the 18th century. Architectural historians McGibbon and Ross produced drawings and established that the structure originally had the appearance of a Scottish ‘G-shaped’ tower house.
The land and the castle was purchased by the quarrying firm of Bain and Brown in 1928 and they began excavating the rocky outcrop beneath the building. As a result, most of the old castle was destroyed and lost and only small fragments of it survive.
Granton Harbour construction commences
Before harbour building began Granton’s coastline had been the site of several shipwrecks and significant events such as the landing of the English army in 1544. An English fleet under the Earl of Hertford anchored near Inchkeith and landed near Leith on 4 May. Meeting no resistance the entire army disembarked within four hours and continued its advance into Scotland.
Serious development of Granton began after William IV gave his royal assent to an Act on 21 April 1837 declaring that the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensferry were granted the right to construct and maintain a pier at Granton and a road to run from it which would connect with the road running from Leith to Queensferry in the County of Edinburgh.
There was heated discussion in Edinburgh in 1834 about the construction of a major new harbour to improve the city’s communications with seagoing vessels which, because of large sandbanks, could not reach the harbour at Leith. Three main projects were proposed by R.W. Hamilton, manager of the General Steam Navigation Company assigned to improve Edinburgh’s harbours – the first was to provide a new entrance to Leith dock, the second proposed a new harbour at Trinity and the third was the erection of a new harbour in the deep waters of Granton.
Hamilton’s project was submitted to the Duke of Buccleuch who at the time owned the rights to the waterfront and Granton harbour. Buccleuch viewed the construction of a deep-water harbour which could be used favourably during any tide and agreed to its construction on his land. Hamilton received royal approval on 21 April 1837.
Construction of Granton Harbour began in June 1837. Robert Stevenson (an engineer) was the design consultant and the Duke of Buccleuch was responsible for funding the project. The first to be erected was the Middle (central) Pier which opened on 28 June 1838. The opening date of the central part of Granton Harbour coincided with Queen Victoria’s coronation. This is why this part of the pier was named Victoria Pier. Victoria landed on the pier on 1 September 1842, visiting Edinburgh as Queen. Construction continued with two more sections until the Middle Pier reached a length of 1,700 feet. It was completed in 1844.
The material for the Middle Pier, namely sandstone, was taken from His Lordship’s (Duke Buccleuch’s) estate. The large facing blocks were brought from Fife. Today, the length of the Middle Pier is 1,700 feet, the width averages 200 feet and it has a depth of 13 feet.
Erection of western and eastern breakwaters
Despite the fact that the central pier was fully suitable for the reception of ships at low tide, it was decided to continue the construction of two breakwaters and a harbour of refuge to protect it from storm winds.
An act authorising the construction of the harbour was issued in 1842. Work began immediately. As westerly winds prevailed in the Firth of Forth the western breakwater was the first to be erected. It consisted of two sections, the first was about 1500 feet long and was completed in 1849 and the second ran from east to southeast. The total length of the breakwater was 3,100 feet.
The eastern breakwater was begun in 1853. The stone used for the breakwater was quarried from the Duke of Granton’s quarry.
Port of Granton, ferries and railways
The first wheeled steamer, the Leviathan, began running between Granton and Burntisland carrying trains in 1850. The number of passengers carried on the ferries reached 400,000 per year. This was the main mode of transport until 1890 when the Forth railway bridge was built. At this stage the carriage of railway wagons by ferry was discontinued.
Coal was actively exported and esparto grass, used to make paper, was imported through the port of Grantham. The development of a Lothian coalfield encouraged a brisk coal trade so the Duke of Buccleuch decided to build an 800 foot-long timber jetty at the corner of the western breakwater. This became the wharf from which coal was shipped using two steam cranes.
Granton Harbour served as a base for warships during the First World War. As ships could enter harbour waters at any tide this was the area chosen by the Admiralty to house minesweepers, patrol vessels and submarine destroyers. When hostilities were over the harbour returned to its normal function.
Building houses in Granton Harbour
As Granton Harbour was built and developed residential buildings for construction workers and employees began to be erected. Some of the buildings are still standing today.
Granton Square was laid out to the south of the harbour. The Granton Hotel was built which had a stable and a ‘beer house’ to the east. On the west side a building was constructed which was used for offices for harbour workers. Schools and churches were built to meet all the social needs of the people living here.
With the development of industry the area was actively developed not only with residential buildings, but also with engineering enterprises. A gasworks opened in 1902 – Bruce Peebles for the manufacture of electrical equipment and United Wire Works for the production of wire mesh.
Granton Harbour today
Today, Granton Harbour continues to operate and receive ships regardless of the state of the tide. Imports through the harbour include esparto grass, timber, automobiles, alcohol and other materials. Exports include coal and coke. Two coal cranes located on the western breakwater are used to transport coal and are capable of moving up to 300 tonnes of coal per hour.
The lands adjoining Granton serve as a location for important industries. Wire mills and factories for the manufacture of ice and nets are located here. Engineers and shipwrights labour in local workshops.
Granton Harbour is undergoing major redevelopment today. A ‘Red Wheel plaque’ was unveiled on the site of the Madelvic Motor Carriage Company in 2021, signifying the site’s significant transport heritage.
Another historic landmark on Edinburgh’s waterfront is one of three gas holders. The structure displays the best features of Victorian industrial architecture. The inner ‘bell’ of the gas holder was removed in 2023 and the area was converted into a public park and opened in 2025.
