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Imagine rugged mist-shrouded Scottish lands where kilt-clad Highlanders fought for their freedom. This iconic image is inseparable from the kilt, a garment that has become a symbol of Scotland. But the kilt is more than just a skirt, it is the history, culture and pride of an entire nation.
The history of the kilt developed in the highlands of Scotland amongst rocky peaks and wind. Its roots go back to ancient times when a stone found in the Scottish village of Nigg dating back to the 7th century depicted a man in folded clothing. This artefact is one of the first pieces of evidence of the famous outfit.
There was once a predecessor to the modern kilt, the Great Kilt. It was a piece of woollen fabric approximately 7.5m – 8m long which was draped around the waist and formed folds. The top part of the fabric was thrown over the shoulder for protection from the cold and wind and at night the kilt turned into a warm blanket. Such versatility made it indispensable in the harsh conditions of the Scottish Highlands.
According to legend, in the early 18th century, Englishman Thomas Rawlinson saw how Scottish workers suffered from the heat in their bulky blankets and suggested that they should cut off the top part of the fabric. This is how the “small” kilt appeared more comfortable and light. However historians claim that shortened versions of the kilt existed long before Rawlinson.
The word ‘kilt’ comes from the Old Norse word “kjilt” meaning “folded” and points to the influence of the Vikings who wore similar garments without the tartan.
How to put on a big kilt
It is a rather complex construction that requires careful preparation and is carried out in several steps:
- Spread the fabric. Place the entire piece of fabric on a flat surface. You will need enough space for this.
- Determine the front. Measure the piece of fabric that will be the front of the kilt. Its width should be half the hip circumference.
- Gather the pleats. On the section following the front, gather the pleats carefully. Each pleat is formed from one layer of fabric and the other layer remains smooth.
- Fasten the belt. At the end of the folds place the belt so that its buckle is on the right side.
- Secure the fabric. Wrap both pieces of fabric (gathered and smooth) around the waist securing them with a belt.
- Decorate the top. The free part of the fabric remaining on top hangs from the belt. It can be thrown over the shoulder or used as a cape.
Small kilt – modern version
Over time the bulkiness and complexity of the large kilt led to the emergence of its more practical version known as the “small kilt”.
The modern kilt is only the lower part of a larger kilt and its construction is considerably more complex than its predecessor. The fabric which is 4.5m – 7.3m (5yd – 8 yd) long is pleated by hand or machine forming folds at the back.
Features of the design of the small kilt:
- The folds are made in the centre of the fabric and make up half the hip circumference.
- There are smooth areas for the apron along the edges each of which is equal to half the hip circumference.
- Additional counter folds are formed at the waist for a good fit.
- The large fabric gusset ensures secure fastening.
- The length of the kilt traditionally reaches to the middle of the knee.
Creation process:
- Dress kilts are hand-sewn and take around 15 hours to make.
- Machine sewing can be used for everyday options.
The finished kilt weighs around 2.5kg and the pleats are only at the back leaving the front smooth.
The little kilt is not only more comfortable but also more aesthetically pleasing than its predecessor making it a popular choice for modern Scotsmen.
Symbol of freedom and identity
The kilt was originally a highland garment worn in northern Scotland when trousers popular elsewhere in Europe were impractical. The kilt allowed for freedom of movement, dried quickly and kept one warm. It could easily be removed in battle, providing maximum maneuverability.
English authorities tried to ban the wearing of kilts after defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1745. The Highlanders found ways to get around the ban such as carrying their trousers on a stick and continued to wear kilts.
Tartan – the soul of the kilt
Tartan (the pattern of the fabric from which kilts are made) holds deep symbolism. Each line and colour of this checkered pattern carries meaning. In the past one could tell what clan a person belonged to from their tartan. The more colours in the fabric the higher the status ranging from simple farmers to clan leaders. Plain tartan was worn by servants. Two colours indicated farmers. Complex multi-layered patterns with five or more colours were intended for nobility and military leaders.
Tartan served an important social function. Its pattern instantly identified who was in front of you – a friend, an enemy or a random traveller. In the chaos of battle, the bright lines of the tartan helped fighters to find their own.
Today there are over 7,000 registered tartans. Each new pattern is registered in an official Scottish register of tartans, preserving the uniqueness and heritage of its symbols. Some patterns are associated with historical figures or famous events. There are even corporate tartans for companies and universities. The royal tartan is especially popular. One of the most famous is the Royal Stuart tartan associated with the British monarch. This pattern is often used at official events and has become a symbol of Scottish culture.
Practicality and aesthetics
Tartan is not only beautiful, but also practical. It is made from wool which makes it incredibly warm and durable. The special weave creates a dense fabric that is resistant to harsh weather conditions.
In the modern world tartan has become popular far beyond Scotland. It is used in fashion design collections, interiors and accessories.
The creation and meaning of the Kilt
It takes about 15 hours of handwork to make a kilt. Each fold must perfectly match the pattern of the fabric. Weighing about 2.5kg, the finished kilt has folds located at the back only. The front remains smooth, emphasizing the severity and style of the outfit.
It is completed with the following necessary accessories:
- A sporran – a leather bag worn on the belt.
- A knife attached to the right stocking. In ancient times its location symbolized the owner’s intentions.
The kilt today
Today the kilt remains an important symbol of Scottish identity. It is worn at weddings, ceremonial events and sporting events. Kilts are used as part of the uniform in the British Army.
Thus, through the centuries, the kilt continues to represent the courage, pride and freedom of the Scots, linking modern generations with their ancient traditions.
